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【日本の料亭】なだ万本店 山茶花荘① 歴史ある料亭ともてなしの心

監修:なだ万本店 山茶花荘

[晴れた日のなだ万本店 山茶花荘正門]
[NADAMAN main restaurant in a sunny day – at the main gate of Sazanka-so]

なだ万 山茶花荘へ
To NADAMAN Sazanka-so

あいにくの悪天候でした。雨が降りしきるなか、ホテルニューオータニの庭をぬけていくと、黒い傘をさして立っている支配人の姿がありました。そこが、日本建築の大家、故・村野藤吾の設計による「なだ万本店 山茶花荘」の入口。「お足下の悪いところを・・・、さぁどうぞ」と出迎えられ、門をくぐると、その先にしっとりと雨に濡れた石畳が続いています。
Unfortunately, it was bad weather. In the pouring rain, through the garden of Hotel New Otani, I found the figure of manager standing with holding a black umbrella. The place is, NADAMAN main restaurant, “Sazanka-so”, designed by the late Togo Murano, an authority on Japanese traditional architecture. 「Thank you for coming in this terrible weather. Welcome」 he greet me. Past the gate, the stone pavement wet in the rain stretched out.なだ万の入口

As I walk on stone pavement step by step, I reached to an open entrance. I fold up my umbrella and exchanged greetings with a landlady and stepped on “kutsunugi-ishi”(a flat stonestep used for taking off guests’ shoes). That must be made by granite. “Kutsunugi-ishi” plays the role of the border of outside and inside. When I stepped on it, I entered extraordinary world of “Sazanka-so”.

Though the entrance is open space, I could not see back rooms. The corridor leads to each room is a little leaning. The landlady says that Togo Murano designed this strange angled corridor with care, not to passengers pass by each other. I was surprised at that precise design.

“Sazanka-so” is originally “NADAMAN main restaurant”, moved from Imabashi of Osaka to the place in 1974. The establishment dates back to the first year of Tenpo(1830). Ogai Mori wrote “NADAMAN restaurant is good” in the Meiji period, and Soseki Natsume also mentioned the store in his work . NADAMAN has long history and in the course it raised the spirit of hospitality. You can feel all of the spirit even at the name of room such as “Hanagiri”, “Aoi”, “Murasaki” and “Akane” named after Tale of Genji.

【なだ万 山茶花荘】花桐の間
NADAMAN Sazanka-so, Room Hanagiri

The first room the landlady introduced is, Room Hanagiri(Room orchid flower) , famous as the place where Tokyo Summit was held. Not only great landscape of tehe garden but unique design tokonoma, a traditional alcove in Japanese room. The tokonoma takes after Kikugetsu-tei tearoom of Ritsurin park, Takamatsu. Its designer Togo Murata liked to reproduct classical architectures. This tokonoma surrounded by diamond lattice shojis(paper sliding doors) looks like small stage.

Even this shojis has their story. In Taisho period, Duke Kinmochi Saionji attended Paris Peace Conference with accompanying the third master of NADAMAN, Mansuke Kusumoto as a cooking attendant.

「Duke took a great fancy to him. Duke Kinmochi has relations in Sumitomo head family. He even allow Mansuke to use diamond shaped family crest as a reward for his services」

With interviewing deep relationships between historical figures and NADAMAN, I look casually around tokonoma. Geometric pattern of diamond lattice has both classic and modern looks. Near the wall, elegant fusumas(patterned paper slide door) catch your eyes.

「Look carefully. Those fusumas are made by fabric, not by paper」

I was surprised at looking closer. All fusumas are covered by textiles from Tatsumura, Kyoto. Tatsumura is long-established store of textile and its products can be compared to art works. A fusuma textile named “Mizugoromo(robe of water)” consists of dazzling golden and silver threads. A gradation from light yellow to deep azure is like streaming water. Gorgeous pattern fusumas and gracious white graveled garden make good contrast.

几帳 なだ万「几帳でございます。昔はお部屋を区切るために使用していましたが、今は飾りとしてお客さまに楽しんで頂けるよう置いています。こうした広いお部屋の場合ですと、控えの間に立てて、接客する者がお客さまの目に入らぬように使用することもございますね」
「This is a screen. Once used as a partition, we now place it just for a decoration, which entertain our guests. Sometimes we put it in backup chamber to keep our attendants out of our guests’ eyes」

Sometimes I feel uneasy at the restaurant – probably because I feel the attendants working busy around me. The buzz often makes me fun but when I want to relax, I want staff “be attentive, but keep out of my eyes”.

NADAMAN makes my wish possible with a traditional, elegant screen. Keep the attendants out of our eyes but they can appear quickly when their guests need their services. Finely tuned services with hospitality makes their guests relax. Finest services are don’t make guests notice that they are served.

【なだ万本店 山茶花荘】葵の間
NADAMAN Sazanka-so, Room Aoi

Room Aoi(Room hollyhock) is very popular room, some guests nominates the room to stay. There is an oriental calligraphy by Yukei Teshima,
one of three greatest calligrapher in Japan. It is written “Ki, Wa, Shin, Itsu”.

There is also another highlight at the room – unique tokonoma. This is “hora doko”, roughly translated to “hollowed alcove”, which designer Togo Murano liked.

なだ万 球形香炉ご覧下さい。精緻な技巧がほどこされた香炉です。この香炉は鈍色に染まって床の間に鎮座しているのに、なんだかとても可愛らしいのです。まんまるとした姿に「香を焚くものなのに、転がしたくなってしまいます」思わず口にすると、若女将が小さく笑いながら「中をご覧になりますか?」秘密を教えてくれるように、そっと香炉を手にしました。
Please take a look. This is a incense burner with detailed art. Although this dull colored burner is enshrined calmly in the tokonoma, it also looks like very lovely. I couldn’t resist to say 「I just want to roll it, though I know this is a burner」 A landlady picked it up gently and said, 「do you want to look inside?」

なだ万の香炉 若女将はほんの少し難渋した様子で、香炉の継ぎ目を開いてくれました。中をのぞいた時に思わず「あっ」と声が漏れたました。二重になった輪を回転軸によって組み、火皿を水平に保つよう工夫されています。まさか、こんな仕掛けになっているなんて。感嘆の声をあげると、
She opened the seam of a burner. I looked inside and gasped with astonishment. It has a complex mechanism with double rings and axis to keep a burner in a horizontal position. I could not hide my surprise.

「When I came to Sazanka-so, a manager at that time showed me it」

She said so and put it back to the tokonoma. Like this, the place where is called as an old‐established store, the interesting stories with unique histories awaits us.

なだ万山茶花荘の若女将 [なだ万本店 山茶花荘・若女将]
[A landlady of Sazanka-so, NADAMAN main restaurant]

A landlady have walked steadily under guidance of pioneers of NADAMAN. She talks about every history of furniture, decoration and arts in the store  in very natural and gentle way.

【なだ万本店 山茶花荘】茜の間
NADAMAN Sazanka-so, Room Akane

The last, she showed me Room Akane.なだ万茜の間茜の間は、しっとりと落ち着きのあるお部屋です。葦簀(よしず)の天井が照らす、ほんのりとした灯りがとても優しい。雪見障子からのぞく庭も風流なものです。ここにもやはり床の間があり、掛け軸には「春駒」、訪れたのが端午の節句ということもあって、愛嬌のある男の子の絵が掛かっています。色使いも鮮やかで、微笑ましい姿絵がこうした料亭の部屋にしては少し珍しい感じがして見つめていると若女将が
Room Akane was the room with mellow atmosphere. A reed sheltered ceiling cast soft and gentle light. The garden view from yukimi shoji(*) was very elegant. There was also tokonoma and a scroll written as “harugoma” was hanging. When I visited was the season of Boys’ Festival, scroll with caressing boy’s picture scroll was also hanging on. Such lovely figure was a little unusual for restaurant, I stared it with interest.
(*)means shoji for snow viewing, paper sliding door with glass window.

「A landlady said “that is by Rakuten Kitazawa」

I didn’t know the name and tilt my head a little. She explained 「He is an artist who is said the first cartoonist in Japan」 He drew many satirical drawing from Meiji to Showa period and was called as an ancestor of modern comics. The fact inspired me a lot.

The view from yukimi shoji was bamboo forest – that was very different of Room Hanagiri. The view is very interesting. Quiet, calm but a bit heartwarming with an art by Rakuten.

The art scrolls hanging on each room has different taste – Two roses by Togyu Okumura(*) on Room Aoi.  Contrast with a flowing calligraphy by Yukei Tejima makes the guests entertain. At Room Akane, a lovely scroll in the mysterious taste brings small surprise. If you want another atmosphere, the store staff will prepare the best scrolls for your purpose.
(*)A master of modern Japanese painter, famous as his works of Mt. Fuji, displayed at the Imperial Palace.

なだ万 茶室 水屋ここは茶室としても使用でき、そのためにすぐ隣に水屋があります。扉を開けると目に飛び込んできたのは、障子の枠が額縁となり、一幅の絵のごとく真四角に切り取られた竹林でした。時代を感じさせる木の照り、四方を壁にかこまれた小さな水屋に、これほどの美しい光景が待っているとは思いもしないことではありませんか。
The room can be used as a tearoom. The view of the room looks like a picture itself – shoji frame will be a picture frame, and bamboo forest draws natural picture with mizuya(a washing place for tea celemony) and old woods. A small mizuya surrounded by wall has such a beautiful view. It is pleasant and unexpected thing.

【なだ万本店 山茶花荘】老舗はいつも新しい
Sazanka-so of NADAMAN main restaurant – a long-established restaurant has always something new

老舗はいつも新しい。それが〝なだ万のこころ〟です。天保元年から続くなだ万には、想像を超えた長い「あゆみ」の歴史があります。紡いできた〝なだ万の歴史〟が伝統をつくり、その先へ、あゆみを止めることなく新しきものへと向かっていきます。それは、稀代の建築家が建てた山茶花荘そのものに息づいており、お部屋で、庭で、廊下で、訪れる人を楽しませてくれることでしょう。A policy of NADAMAN is “a long-established restaurant has always something new”. Been in business since Tenpo period, NADAMAN has a long history beyond our imagination. History makes tradition, tradition will make something new. The policy lives in Sazanka-so itself, designed by an extraordinary architect and makes their guests enjoy at each room, garden and corridor.

なだ万 庭最後にお庭の様子をご紹介します。お食事のあとに散策されるもよし、池の鯉を眺めるもよし。
Let us show you the garden in the end. You can walk there after dinner and watch carps swimming elegantly in a pond.

If it is a rainy day, you will like to watch wet lushing green through the glass. Colorful and delicious dishes and cold liquor at your side, even rain cannot cloud your heart.

Let us introduce splendid dishes in the next article.

(Titles omitted)

A specificity of Togo Murano in Japanese architecture – through the method of reproduction –
 Complete works of modern Japanese architects “Togo Murano”, San-ichi Publishing Co., Ltd.

NADAMAN Sokyu grand open information

住所:福岡市中州2-3-8 G-CUBE NAKASU 9階・10階
A new branch of “NADAMAN” has opened on the 5th July 2019, at Nakasu, Fukuoka Prefecture. The first terrace seats of NADA MAN stores, the guests can enjoy grilled dish and great view of Hakata City from the top floor. We’ll be expecting your visit.
Address: G-CUBE NAKASU 9th and 10th floor
2-3-8 Nakasu, Fukuoka City
Telephone: 092-271-7161


取材/文 大橋 礼
Interview and article by: Rei Ohashi



なだ万本店 山茶花荘

なだ万本店 山茶花荘



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